Who Is Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

His most well-known accomplishment was his role as an outstanding European fashion designer who had a significant effect on fashion from the 1960s to the current day.

Who Was Yves Saint Laurent?

When he was a teenager, Yves Saint Laurent moved to Paris to work for designer Marc Jacobs. Christian Diorand garnered fame for his clothing designs. In 1966, he established his own fashion lines, which became well-known for their adaptations of tuxedos for female wearers. In 1983, he was the first living designer to have a solo show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, which was the first of its kind.

Early Years

Yves Henri Donat Matthieu is a French fashion designer. Saint Laurent’s parents, Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, welcomed him into the world on August 1, 1936, in Oran, Algeria. The younger of his two sisters, Michelle and Brigitte, he grew up in a home on the Mediterranean with his parents and two younger sisters. Despite the fact that his family was relatively well-off — his father was a lawyer and insurance broker who also owned a chain of theatres — the future fashion icon’s youth was not without its difficulties.

  • As a result, Saint Laurent was an anxious youngster who was ill almost every day of his childhood.
  • At the age of eight, he enjoyed making elaborate paper dolls.
  • When Yves Saint Laurent was 17, his mother took him to Paris for a meeting with Michael de Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, which opened the door to a whole new world for him.
  • The designer Christian Dior, who is considered a titan in the fashion industry, met Saint Laurent through De Brunhoff.
  • “I was unable to talk in front of him.
  • Whatever happened after that, the years I spent by his side will be etched in my memory.” Saint Laurent’s style continued to grow and earn even more recognition while under the direction of Christian Dior.

Going His Own Way

In 1960, Saint Laurent was summoned back to his native Algeria to assist in the country’s struggle for independence. He was able to obtain an exemption on the basis of his health, but when he returned to Paris, he discovered that his position with Dior had been eliminated. At first, the news was upsetting for the young, sensitive designer who had just graduated from college. Then things became nasty, with Saint Laurent successfully suing his former tutor for breach of contract, and receiving £48,000 in damages from the former mentor.

A decision was made by the designer, in collaboration with his spouse and beloved, Pierre Berge, to establish his own fashion business.

Throughout the following two decades, Saint Laurent’s creations remained at the pinnacle of the fashion industry.

His works were praised by models and actors alike. The pea coat was one of the first pieces he presented to the catwalk, and he also dressed ladies in blazers and smoking coats. His hallmark items featured the translucent blouse and the jumpsuit, which were both sold out.

Later Years and Death

By the 1980s, Saint Laurent had established himself as a fashion icon. He was the first designer to have a retrospective exhibition of his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, which he did in 1989. While under Berge’s management, the fashion brand thrived as a money-making endeavor even after the two parted ways in 1986. Berge remained to oversee Saint Laurent’s firm after their divorce was finalized. Saint Laurent, on the other hand, struggled. He grew reclusive and struggled with alcohol and cocaine addictions, which he eventually overcame.

  1. Saint Laurent was able to regain its footing in the early 1990s.
  2. Saint Laurent, like many others, appeared to have defeated his demons.
  3. Saint Laurent resigned from the fashion industry in Marrakech, Morocco, in January 2002 after participating in his final show.
  4. After a brief illness, Yves Saint Laurent passed unexpectedly on June 1, 2008, in his home in Paris.

Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008)

IN THE CITY OF PARIS, IN THE COUNTRY OF FRENCH— Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent was regarded as the father of modernism in the fashion industry. When he retired from the fashion industry in 2002, he could look back on his career and assert, with complete justification, that not only had he been responsible for every major change in women’s dress, but that many current female attitudes were, in part, the result of his uncompromisingly bold fashion approaches, not least to one’s own self and sexuality.

  • Saint Laurent died in 2005 at the age of 71.
  • He developed his own universe, replete with a fashion house that was meticulously detailed and entirely constructed of cut paper.
  • His models were cut outs from his mother’s fashion magazines, and he clothed them in outfits and accessories that he designed himself.
  • The providers of cloth, furs, shoes, and jewelry were all world-class manufacturers in their own fields.
  • He was completely consumed by his obsession.

But he also worked on costumes for theatre, film, and ballet throughout his career as an artist, and he was fortunate to collaborate with artists of the caliber that were Bunuel and Truffaut, as well as actors Jeanne Moreau and Catherine Deneuve, and ballet dancers Roland Petit and Rene Jeanmarie.

  1. Those years began in 1955, when Christian Dior, on the advice of Michel de Brunhoff, the editor-in-chief of French Vogue, hired him as an assistant at his namesake fashion business, which was at the time the most recognized in the world, to help him with his designs.
  2. While working at Dior, he created an immediate impression: his evening dress, worn by Dovima while standing between two elephants and shot by Richard Avedon, drew widespread praise.
  3. Due to the fact that it was fully in the spirit of the Dior style, his debut collection was a huge hit.
  4. Following collections were pitched far too young for the normal Dior client, either because of youthful hubris or over-enthusiasm on the part of the designers.

The news spread throughout the world in what was possibly the first time in history that a fashion designer had command of the front pages of the world’s press, even those who believed that women’s fashion and all of its activities should be restricted to the women’s pages of the newspaper industry.

  • He was twenty-one years old.
  • His mental state was exacerbated by the fact that he had been enlisted into the French army, which was the emotional equivalent of confining a fawn in a cage with a hyena, as he said.
  • He was released from the hospital.
  • Their connection continued until the designer’s death in 1997.
  • As an entrepreneur, he had elevated his last lover, the artist Bernard Buffet, to the status of a significant player in Parisian art circles, and he was confident that he could do the same for Yves, as well.
  • It was developed by Cassandre, who was considered the world’s finest graphic designer at the time, and funded by J.

Even though many intelligent observers in Paris and elsewhere were skeptical, the miraculous birth had occurred despite the concerns of many intelligent observers in Paris and elsewhere who were concerned about the longevity of the relationship between the two men and the mental health of Saint Laurent.

  • He wished to carry on the tradition of elegance that he had gained while working for Dior and that had garnered him the prestigious Neiman Marcus award for Trapeze, his first collection following Dior’s death.
  • Prior to examining Yves’ years of success, it is necessary to consider what went wrong at Dior during his tenure there.
  • Yves was well aware of this and, after Trapeze, made the decision to significantly lower the age limit.
  • However, it was his Beat Look that shattered their confidence.
  • Such garments were not profitable for the corporation.
  • In order for their new firm to exist, Yves and Berge realized that they needed to sell something that would satisfy their fans while also attracting the attention of the media.
  • Putting on his cultural hat and intending to create something that would be suitable for the high street, he created a series of woollen shifts that were inspired by the work of the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian from the twenties.
  • However, they were ideal for publicity purposes.

While on a roll, he plunders pop culture, primitive civilizations, and the work of the great painters to create a succession of ground-breaking notions such as: Pop Art; Africa; Safari; Morocco; Ballets Russes; Chinoiserie; Matisse; Braque; Picasso; tuxedos; and Le Smoking (the act of smoking).

Even while his couture creations were spectacular and one-of-a-kind, as well as reflecting the requirements of the street, his ready-to-wear collections continued to represent the relaxed approaches to individualism, sexual freedom, and rise in feminine authority and self-esteem that characterized his time.

  1. For women all across the world, classics of their fashion vocabulary include the trouser suit, the smoking jacket, and the Safari jacket.
  2. It’s also worth mentioning Yves Saint Laurent’s scents, particularly the audacity with which they were conceptualized and presented, where he once again set the standard.
  3. However, he did not always appear to be walking on water.
  4. A terrible failure of taste, it was generally denounced as demonstrating a brutal disregard to the misery of individuals in Paris during the Nazi occupation, many of whom were still living and knew the privations such as eating rats to stay alive during the Nazi captivity.

However, although most commentators were unaware of it at the time, the collection added style to the original, poorly-made and pre-fabricated ’40s garments, and the short imitation fur coat and turban in bright grass green has become a classic that has been revived on a regular basis by other fashion designers since.

  • “Yves was born with a mental breakdown!” says the first, which is quite well known since it is repeatedly resurrected: It’s a lighthearted, off-hand statement that doesn’t mean anything.
  • It characterizes Yves as “a guy of outstanding brilliance, pursuing the trade of an idiot,” and it raises the issue of whether he could have been an even better artist despite his enormous and still-continuing effect on fashion.
  • Many of them have played a significant role in the small niche that they have carved out for themselves in the world.
  • However, none of them has the supreme authority to set the greatest fashion standards over an extended period of time and to transform not just how we dress, but also how we think of ourselves, all while presenting the highest requirements of perfection to fashion designers.

His impact is still felt today, and his place in the pantheon of creative genius is unlikely to alter unless the fashion industry itself changes its mind. YNFNNHC4ZJDLJDEFGSNG2QCO3A

Yves Saint Laurent’s Early Years

In 1953, Yves Saint Laurent competed in the annual competition of the Secrétariat International de la Laine in Paris, where he placed third in the clothing category, just a few months after becoming 17 years old. The next year, he participated once more, this time taking home first and third place in the same classification. During his first visit to Paris, he met Michel de Brunhoff, the editor-in-chief of Vogue(Paris), with whom he established a correspondence after returning to Oran and continuing to this day.

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De Brunhoff urged him to seek a career in fashion and specifically suggested him to enroll at the École de la Chambre syndicale in order to further his education.

These illustrations were likely similar to those on show here.

Because the couturier was so impressed with the young Saint Laurent’s abilities, he decided to engage him to work at his workshop during the summer of 1955.

Yves Saint Laurent: Ten things you might not have known about the fashion designer

Yves Saint Laurent, an Algerian-born fashion designer, was a game-changer in his own time—which wasn’t that long ago. His designs influenced the way women dressed and set the way for a new kind of femininity that was less reliant on dresses and skirts than it was in the past. As much as Coco Chanel is credited for accelerating the popularity of women wearing pants, Yves Saint Laurent took it a step further by introducing his now-signature smoking suit, a shapely tuxedo that was pulled straight off the backs of men but tailored to suit womanly contours.

In all of those years, and even before that, Saint Laurent has managed to keep his muses, as well as a devoted following, thrilled about his creations, regardless of whether they have received positive or negative reviews from fashion journalists.

And what a life, to be sure.

1. He worked for Christian Dior before starting his own label.

Saint Laurent was appointed as the chief designer of the House of Dior in 1957, when he was just 21 years old, after being personally picked by Christian Dior himself, soon before the latter’s death in 1957. In the years leading up to his appointment, Saint Laurent would send drawings of his ideas for Dior’s couture line, which Dior gradually became aware of and accepted as the seasons progressed. After nearly a decade, Saint Laurent’s partnership with Dior came to an end in 1960. He was compelled to serve in the French Army during the Algerian War of Independence, and his 1960 collection for Dior—in which he debuted the first leather jacket for haute couture—received negative reviews from the press and clientele, leading to his dismissal from the company.

In the next year, Saint Laurent filed a lawsuit against Dior for breach of contract. He won the case, and he and his business partner went on to establish their own fashion firm.

2. He went through electroshock therapy.

Saint Laurent suffered from depression as a result of the stress of receiving word of his discharge from Dior while serving in the army, as well as being hazed by his fellow soldiers. He was sent to a psychiatric institution after just 20 days of duty, where he was given sedatives and other medicines to help him cope. In addition, electroshock therapy was utilized in the hopes of restoring his mental health.

3. He fell in love with a city.

In 1980, Yves Saint Laurent sat on the veranda of his Marrakech home. (Image courtesy of Horst P. Horst/Conde Nast via Getty Images.) ) In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent traveled to Morocco for the first time, and the trip had a lasting impact on his art. Morocco, and notably Marrakech, is generally attributed for exposing Saint Laurent to the use of color in his designs, as was the case with his first collection. Later, he would make it a point to go to the city on the first of December and the first of June every year to develop his haute couture collections.

4. He championed non-white models.

Saint Laurent was the first designer in the world to use non-Caucasian models for his Paris catwalk presentations. “My first Vogue cover ever was because of this man,” Naomi Campbell said in an interview with the British Channel 4 news. “When I said to him, ‘Yves, they won’t give me a French Vogue cover, they won’t put a black girl on the cover,’ he was like ‘I’ll take care of that,’ and he did.” “My first Vogue cover ever was because of this man,” Campbell said.

5. Pierre Bergé and Saint Laurent were together for a long time.

A dinner hosted by Harper’s Bazaar’s Paris editor in 1958 brought the two men together. They became fast friends and eventually married. Despite the fact that their love connection is said to have ended in 1972, they continued to be business partners. Following Saint Laurent’s death in 2008, it was stated that the two of them agreed to form what is known as a French “civil agreement of solidarity.” This legal arrangement provides some rights and duties in lieu of a formal marriage, according to the New York Times.

6. In 2014, there were two films dedicated to his life.

The two films, Yves Saint Laurent and Saint Laurent, both featured the life of Saint Laurent, although neither was advertised as a documentary on the designer. Although Pierre Bergé simply gave the green light to Yves Saint Laurent, it is possible that he may have had some control over the production to present certain events in a more favorable light.

7. Someone paid a lot of money for a nude photo of Saint Laurent.

What is the price of a Saint Laurent nude shot taken in his underwear? A Christie’s auction in June 2010 sold the famous nude photograph of Yves Saint Laurent by Jeanloup Sieff, which was used in the advertising campaign for Yves Saint Laurent’s first men’s fragrance in 1971. The photograph had been estimated to sell for EUR15,000 but ended up selling for EUR39,800, more than double its original estimate.

8. Two museums were built in 2017 in his honour.

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum is located in Paris, France. Marrakech. It was in the same year that two museums dedicated to Saint Laurent were opened in Paris and Marrakech, demonstrating his affection for both cities. It is at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris where you will find more retrospective exhibitions that are dedicated to the designer’s life and legacy.

For its part, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech curates art shows by Moroccan artists and designers, with a very modest collection of haute couture pieces by Saint Laurent on display.

9. He beat Karl Largerfeld in a competition.

Saint Laurent joined an international design competition, the International Wool Secretariat, when he was 18 years old, before starting work for Christian Dior in Paris. He was named the winner, defeating future opponent Karl Largerfeld, who was 21 years old at the time and a future adversary in both profession and romance.

10. His illness was kept from him.

Saint Laurent went away on June 1st, 2018 as a result of brain cancer. However, he was completely unaware of his disease and eventual death. Pierre Bergé verified this in an interview with The Talks, which can be seen here: “He was completely unaware. We discussed if it would be better for him to be unaware of what had happened, and we agreed that it would be best for him to remain in the dark. To be honest with you, I got the impression that Yves would not have been strong enough to tolerate it.”

Yves Saint Laurent: the battle for his life story

When Yves Saint Laurent volunteered to be shot by documentary filmmaker David Teboul for a rare behind-the-scenes glimpse at his work in 2001, he was just seven years away from his untimely death. While watching a slideshow of family pictures in the opening scene, he grimaces and says, “I used to be the ‘grand couturier’.” His voice is both mournful and self-deprecating; it is the sound of an elderly man gazing back over a great distance at his fragile 16-year-old self, who is hunched over his beautifully clothed paper dolls with his head lowered in shame and regret.

Six decades later, the story of the small child who grew up to be the century’s most famous fashion designer and who performed the role of “grand couturier” continues to captivate audiences.

The second, Yves Saint Laurent, directed by actor/director Jalil Lespert, is currently at the top of the French box office.

Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s business partner, has offered Lespert access to his huge archives, and he expressed his displeasure with the competing endeavor on Twitter last year: “I am the moral heir to YSL’s creative output.

The focus of his biopic will be on Yves during the years in which he produced his most important works (the decade that culminated in his triumphant Ballet Russes collection in 1976); and Bonello is positioning his version as the “unauthorised” story – one that will portray Yves’s truth rather than Pierre’s – in order to distinguish it from Pierre’s.

Some of the biggest names in fashion, from Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz toTom Ford, have spent time at the leadership of the business since the late 1990s.

His death from brain cancer occurred in 2008; four years later, Hedi Slimane, who had been employed as a menswear designer in 1996, returned to the company and instantly abbreviated the label’s name to Saint Laurent.

The move sparked an instant outpouring of opposition, as well as a surprisingly long-lasting backlash: last fall, the Parisian retailer Colette fell out with the label over T-shirts bearing the slogan: “AIN’T LAURENT WITHOUT YVES.” It’s not difficult to understand the public’s obsession with the YSL narrative, which is a storyline that combines spectacular public achievement with personal sorrow.

  1. After winning an international design competition (beating future competitor Karl Lagerfeld) at the age of 18, he was employed by fashion’s reigning Sun King, Christian Dior, at the age of just 18.
  2. As portrayed by Pierre Niney, he is at once ferociously demanding and terribly bashful, pampered and comfortable – just as he had been in Algeria – in a world of loving ladies, and he is a complex character.
  3. Yves Saint Laurent with models in 1962, stepping into the spotlight.
  4. The French newspaper L’Express declared him “France’s latestenfant triste,” referring to him as “another of the country’s new breed of gloomy prodigies,” which also includes novelistFrançoise Sagan and painter Bertrand Buffet.
  5. It was the most dramatic fashion binge ever witnessed.” Amidst the gushing praise, there were others who were skeptical.
  6. He crumbled after being ejected from his Avenue Montaigne haven and was committed to a psychiatric institution just three weeks after reporting for duty: a failed young man at the age of twenty-four.
  7. Pierre Bergé, Buffet’s then-boyfriend, had introduced him to the fashion house shortly after his Dior debut in 1958, and the two had begun a personal and professional connection that would last until the end of his life.
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Their responsibilities were quite apparent from the beginning.

As for Niney, the filmmaker has discovered an actor who is arguably even more like Saint Laurent than the designer himself: troubled, passionate, and yet endearingly infantile as he slips out of couture’s regulated environment and into the unfettered decadence of the 1960s.

There are also flashes of a steel tension that only a few people saw, or chose to notice.

“Yves was a very strong person,” says Susan Train, Condé Nast’s Paris bureau chief and a friend of both Saint Laurent and Bergé.

Yves was completely reliant on Pierre, and he would never have achieved the kind of success that he did if it hadn’t been for him.” It took time for Yves Saint Laurent to achieve popularity; the inaugural Yves Saint Laurent presentation, held in January 1962, got a mixed reception.

He came up with concepts that became instant hits and later timeless classics, such as the Mondrian-print shift dress, the Saharienne safari jacket, the Le Smoking trouser suit, and Catherine Deneuve’sBelle de Jourwardrobe, among others.

It was no longer the youthful, inexperienced Yves, but a pleasant, seemingly confident guy who was more than simply a household name – like Coco Chanel, he had become the most alluringly potent manifestation of his brand.

His black suits were replaced with luxuriantly louche kaftans, silk shirts, suede jackets, and leather trenchcoats, all of which were made in Italy.

In order to do this, his orders were clear: “I want to stir up controversy.” 1967’s “Le Smoking Suit” exemplifies the art of clothing.

He was high on success, on fame, and on an ever-changing concoction of booze, acid, and cocaine while he danced the night away in the 1960s and 1970s.

Away from the cameras, Yves and Pierre had a series of heated, even violent exchanges as Pierre struggled to keep both the firm and Yves personally afloat.

As the years passed, they each developed new hobbies, new passions, and new lovers (most notably, Lagerfeld protégé Jacques de Bascher, whose involvement with Yves gave another layer to the fierce Lagerfeld/Saint Laurent rivalry), and their relationship began to deteriorate.

In the meantime, while Pierre became an increasingly combative spokesperson, Yves shrank away from the public glare, tired by the fashion treadmill but seemingly unable to get off.

For example, Warhol wrote in his diaries: “Loulout informed us that YSL was such a genius that he just couldn’t handle it anymore, that he had to take a million medications, and that the whole workplace was so depressed when he was depressed.”.

“Everything he had, I didn’t have,” Yves said back in 2001.

At the same time, he signed his name to everything from sunglasses to bed linens to cigarettes – and licensed a range of era-defining fragrances (Opium, Jazz, Kouros) that would keep YSL’s name firmly in the spotlight even as the man behind the initials slowly faded away from the public’s consciousness.

  1. “You know, I’m not that nice,” Lespert confesses to Bergé early in the film’s running time.
  2. Charlotte Lebon co-stars with Pierre Niney in the new film.
  3. Thibault Grabherr captured this image.
  4. Although that cosmos has faded in some ways, it still exists in the world of fashion, particularly in Paris: after all, it has only been three years since John Galliano — another spoiled Dior boy wonder – suffered his own shockingly public fall from grace.
  5. A last scene in Lespert’s video shows Yves staggering down the runway, his mouth hanging open and his eyes lost behind his spectacles, his movements uneven and unpredictably unsure.

It’s difficult to say. Indeed, even during his lifetime, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent spent decades shrouded in speculation and rumor, with his life story having become more mythology than reality for most of the time. The Yves Saint Laurentis collection was launched on March 21st.

The Female Muses Who Inspired Yves Saint Laurent

It is possible that CR Fashion Book will get compensation for the items advertised on this page. The young Yves Saint Laurent went from dressing paper dolls as a toddler to establishing one of the world’s most powerful premium fashion brands. Additionally, he was one of the youngest designers to produce high-quality designs throughout his time period, in addition to creating a profitable legacy brand. As a protégé of Christian Dior and a long-time adversary of Karl Lagerfeld, he had an important role in shaping Laurent’s illustrious career and personal life that we know today.

In celebration of the legendary designer’s birthday, CRlooks back on the various muses that inspired him to unleash his revolutionary inventiveness.

Victoire Doutreleau: Le Première

Victoire Doutreleau was a French model for Christian Dior in the early 1950s, and she contributed to the early stages of Yves Saint Laurent’s career by not only becoming an assistant for the house, but also by becoming one of the designer’s closest friends. Victoire Doutreleau was born in Paris and raised in the suburbs of Paris. According to Doutreleau in an interview with Women’s Wear Daily, the two shared a profound bond that was never anchored in romance. The fact that the two were so close means that it’s reasonable to assume that Doutreleau was Laurent’s first and real muse for what he desired for a woman to embody when she appeared in his designs.

Paloma Picasso: It-Girl

Paloma Picasso was more than simply the famous artist Pablo Picasso’s daughter; she was also a model and actress. She was a successful entrepreneur who also worked as a jewelry designer for Tiffany & Co. and as a fashion designer. She was also a crucial figure in Saint Laurent’s inner circle of friends and muses, and she was one of the most famous of them. Picasso was the inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent’s intimidating and badly appreciated “Scandal” collection in 1971, which debuted in the 1970s at a time when fashion was entering a new arena.

Photographs courtesy of Getty Images

Betty Catroux: Laurent in Woman Form

Catroux began her modeling career with Chanel, but quickly discovered that the brand did not reflect her personal style. Laurent’s body, manner, and face shape all appealed to her, and these characteristics all contributed to the two being inseparable. It was widely assumed that the two were twins who traveled and partied together. Laurent’s thorough dig into designing the masculine-feminine wardrobe essentials such as the tuxedo, trouser suits, and jumpsuits was sparked by his encounter with Catroux.

Catherine Deneuve: “Godmother” of Rive Gauche

During the production of Belle de Jour in 1966, Deneuve and Laurent got acquainted, and the actress eventually became known as the designer’s “lucky charm.” Because of her charm and elegance, Deneuve also became known as the “godmother” of Laurent’s ready-to-wear collections under the Rive Gauche label.

Despite the fact that Deneuve and Laurent were close friends, they were also hailed as an early example of a successful collaboration between an actress and a fashion designer, according to the press. Photographs courtesy of Getty Images

Loulou de la Falaise: Bohemian Queen

Falaise met Saint Laurent for the first time in 1968, and the encounter prompted the designer to take more risks with his clothes. Her boho flair and free-spirited vision are reported to have had a significant influence on the designer during his time in Marrakech. Falaise was born in England, but as a youngster, she travelled across the world, living with foster homes and being expelled from schools in Switzerland and New York. Falaise was raised by her foster parents. She was what we would term a real bohemian in our day and age.

He is most known for his role in the film The Great Gatsby.

Mounia:

When it came to models of color on the runways in the 1960s and 1970s, there were few, if any, to choose from. According to the New York Times, Laurent was one of the very few designers to defy conventional wisdom and include an African-American model in a haute couture presentation. Mounia, a native of Martinique, was chosen as his muse in 1978. When it comes to remembering barrier-breaking models in the business today, the first names that come to mind are Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks, but it was Mounia who truly laid the groundwork for Black women to be featured in the industry.

Marine Schiano: Power Woman

Schiano began working at Yves Saint Laurent’s men’s shop in 1971 and rose through the ranks to become executive vice president of the company later that year. She was well-known for being the brains behind the debut of Saint Laurent’s Opium fragrance in New York, which she oversaw. She was described as “fierce and bold” by many who knew her, traits that helped her rise to prominence in the fashion sector, where she had jobs in public relations for Calvin Klein and as the creative style director at Vanity Fair, among other positions.

Vogue magazine published a photograph by Deborah Turbeville in their February 1975 issue.

You may be able to discover further information on this and other related items at the website piano.io.

Brand history: Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent was established in 1961 and has since become one of the most recognizable fashion brands of the twentieth century. Yves Saint Laurent, formerly known as a House of Haute Couture, transformed the way fashion and society blend and interact in 1966 with the introduction of high-end created clothing that were produced on a bigger scale than the collections that were available only to the wealthy. In the decades since its founding, Yves Saint Laurent has exerted significant impact both within and outside of the fashion business.

As the first to be innovative, the Maison carries this spirit with it as a core component of its DNA today.

Saint Laurent competes with the world’s most exclusive and high-end luxury brands and holds a leadership position in the industry.

Saint Laurent will continue to expand and establish itself as a brand with a strong and distinct DNA in the twenty-first century as a result of the implementation of this plan.

Yves Saint Laurent

A new chapter in the life of Yves Saint Laurent, the king of fashion designers who created a masterpiece of a brand, is beginning.

  • Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 in Oran, Algeria, and spent his childhood there. At the age of 17, he traveled to Paris, where he presented his sketches to Michel.
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De Brunhoff, the director of FrenchVogue, was the one who published a number of them right away.

  • The introduction of Yves Saint Laurent to Christian Dior, where he worked until the death of Dior in 1957, came after a brief spell at fashion school. The Ligne Trapéze collection was Yves Saint Laurent’s debut collection for Dior when he took over as the company’s art director in the same year he was hired. It was a great hit, and he was awarded the Neiman MarcusOscar for it. With the help of Pierre Bergé in 1962 upon his completion of National Service, Yves Saint Laurent established his own fashion company
  • In 1966, he launched le smoking, the world’s most famous smoking suit. Another item that he invented was the Reefer Jacket in 1962, followed by the sheerblouse in 1966, and the jumpsuit in 1968. In October 1998, Yves Saint Laurent presented his final ready-to-wear collection for the Rive Gauche label, which he had launched more than 30 years earlier in the same location. He continued to work in haute couture until 2002. After a brief period under the direction of Alber Elbaz as designer, Tom Ford assumed leadership of the house in 1999. The brand reached the stratosphere, where it has remained to this day, including scent as well as menswear and apparel. In 2002, Yves Saint Laurent showed his final collection, which he did so in tears.

Catherine Deneuve, his long-time muse, performed *MaPlus Belle Histoire d’Amour* as his final bow on the red carpet. Since taking over for Tom Ford in 2005, Stefano Pilati has carried on Yves Saint Laurent’s ethos that “dressing is a way of life.”

  • After a lengthy period of bad health, Yves Saint Laurent passed away on June 1, 2008, at his residence in the French capital. He was 71 years old.

The History of the House of Yves Saint Laurent

Visit at the Cultural Center / Greta Samuel Intricate details of the House of Saint Laurent’s history are highlighted by its founder’s Le Smoking tuxedo and Hedi Slimane’s brand revamp, which were both designed by the designer himself. This is what distinguishes the Parisian fashion house as a culturally significant institution. As the founder of his own design company, Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized the way women dressed when he opened his first store in 1961. His approach, which was inspired by the structure of menswear and the sense of power that comes with wearing it, was a celebration of gender fluidity that sent shockwaves through the fashion world.

  1. |
  2. Algerian-born He was found by prominent French writer and illustrator Michel de Brunhoff, who published his sketches and introduced him to Christian Dior, which led to the creation of Yves Saint Laurent’s signature look.
  3. The first couture collection by Yves Saint Laurent was launched in 1961, with an archive of Dior haute couture and ready-to-wear collections behind him, as well as a wealth of opinions about how modern women should dress.
  4. Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, the ready-to-wear collection, debuted a year later, in 1966.
  5. The power suit was one of his first creations, and he transformed the safari jacket from a practical to a fashion-forward piece.
  6. The fashion business was going through a period of transition.
  7. Model walking down the catwalk in Yves Saint Laurent|Sipa Press/REX/Shutterstock It is the finely fitted, all-black tuxedo that defines Saint Laurent’s influence on fashion and has been his hallmark look for almost 40 years.
  8. Despite the fact that fashion merchants didn’t stock it, celebrities such as Bianca Jagger, Catherine Deneuve, and Nan Kempner were among the first to do so.

Fashion designer Kate Moss poses for Yves Saint Laurent in Paris|REX/Shutterstock Saint Laurent continued to expand his already impressive design portfolio, but in 1998 he handed over the reins of the ready-to-wear brand to Alber Elbaz in order to devote his whole attention to the couture collection.

  1. “I’d want to make a Saint Laurent collection by Alber Elbaz.” Perhaps it was because of his attitude that his tenure was very brief.
  2. The Gucci Group purchased the House of Yves Saint Laurent, and Elbaz was quickly replaced by Tom Ford, who was also the creative director of the Italian fashion house Gucci at the time.
  3. Saint Laurent’s inaugural collection was intended to make a statement, and it included monochrome outfits that were totally devoid of the accessories that the designer had spent years perfecting.
  4. Alber Elbaz’s Yves Saint Laurent presentation during Paris Fashion Week was a triumph.
  5. Saint Laurent retired to Marrakech in 2002 following a long battle with health and addiction troubles, and the bow he took during his farewell show – which featured a sentimental look back at his 40 years of work – was very emotional for the designer.
  6. Stefano Pilati, a former Miu Miu designer, has been appointed as the brand’s creative director.
  7. Hedi Slimane took over as his replacement in 2012.

The fashion house has been revolutionized by each of Saint Laurent’s predecessors, but none had nearly the same impact as Hedi Slimane.

Saint Laurent Paris was the target of a media reaction, which may explain why Slimane decided to live in Los Angeles and notably shunned media attention in order to focus on his solitary vision.

The house’s signature pieces include luxurious, superbly constructed leather biker jackets and rock-inspired boots, as well as metallic party dresses that pay homage to the edgy allure of the 1970s and 1980s.

Slimane also combined men’s and women’s collections in an attempt to emphasize the gender-fluid message.

At Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent presented its autumn/winter 2018 collection.

Slimane’s contract was not renewed, which came as a surprise given the enormous changes taking place at the fashion brand and the tremendous success it has enjoyed in recent years.

Lawsuits were filed, and only after Slimane won his case in April 2018 were they finally settled.

The aesthetic is somewhere in between what Yves Saint Laurent initially showed and what Hedi Slimane redesigned thus far, but only time will tell what the future holds for the House of Saint Laurent’s fashion house.

5 Must-Know Tales About The Late Yves Saint Laurent

Cultural Exploration / Greta Samuel Intricate details of the House of Saint Laurent’s history are highlighted by its founder’s Le Smoking tuxedo and Hedi Slimane’s brand revamp, among other things. As a result, the Parisian fashion house has gained tremendous cultural significance. As the founder of his own design company, Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized the way women dressed when he opened the doors to his store in 1961. A celebration of gender fluidity, his style was influenced by the structure of menswear and the sense of power that came with wearing it.

  • As a result, designers such as Alber Elbaz and Hedi Slimane have worked to interpret Saint Laurent’s vision for the company, and it is currently Anthony Vaccarello who is at the leadership of the brand.
  • Gray/Penske Media/REX/Shutterstock.
  • After working as a design assistant at Dior for a few years, he was promoted to the position of creative director after the company’s founder died unexpectedly in 1957.
  • The collection opened with a peacoat and wide-leg trouser combination, and the rest is history.
  • It was his brazen approach to blurring the barriers between menswear and womenswear, as well as his embrace of feminine sensuality, that distinguished Saint Laurent from his contemporaries in the fashion industry.
  • The fashion industry was through a period of transition.
  • In 1966, it was a groundbreaking addition to his haute couture collection, and it was met with mixed reviews when it first debuted on the Paris fashion catwalk.

When Helmut Newton photographed the outfit for FrenchVogue on a dimly lit cobblestone street in Paris in 1975, he established the style’s legendary reputation.

Saint Laurent died in 1998 at the age of 71.

The Saint Laurent by Alber Elbaz collection is something I’d want to accomplish,” says the designer.

The label sacked him after only three seasons, and he left for Lanvin, where he would remain until his retirement in 2015.

With Ford, the label entered into a new era.

The relationship between the two creatives was contentious, with Ford alleging that Saint Laurent didn’t approve of his vision for the company, despite the brand receiving critical praise and seeing skyrocketing sales throughout his tenure.

Photo courtesy of Ken Towner of the Evening Standard and REX/Shutterstock With his health and drug problems deteriorating, Saint Laurent decided to retire to Marrakech in 2002, and the bow he took at his farewell show — which featured a bittersweet look back at 40 years of labor – was visibly moved.

In the years between 1999 and 2004, Ford worked tirelessly to produce 16 highly anticipated collections every year for both Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, so it was no surprise when he consolidated his talents and founded his own name-brand business.

Spring/summer 2005 saw the debut of a feminine style that seemed fresh (and perhaps a little off-track) for Saint Laurent, with broad waist belts and voluminous skirts replacing the crisp tailoring and modest detailing for which the house had been famous.

Hedi Slimane’s ready-to-wear collection for Saint Laurent debuted in 2015, and was shot by Etienne Laurent/Epa/REX/Stockholm.

A lot of people were divided by his spectacular four-year relaunch of the label, which removed the name Yves Saint Laurent from the nameplate.

It is this concept that encapsulates what we know as the Saint Laurent ‘look’ today, and it can be found in both the men’s and women’s collections of the fashion house.

To emphasize the gender-fluid message, Slimane used a unique and controversial approach to the runway shows, casting models reminiscent of Kate Moss’s ‘heroin chic’ era and playing music that was specially recorded for the event.

Taking its traditional items and pushing them to premium level in a way that seems rebellious and hip, it has become a name that represents the spirit of young culture.

Slimane announced the relaunch of thecoutureline in 2015, a project that he had been working on since he was appointed to the position three years before.

His departure from Saint Laurent was officially confirmed on April 1, 2016.

He was succeeded by Anthony Vaccarello, who has remained at Saint Laurent till this day and gives yet another new perspective on how the brand should be propelled forward.

The aesthetic is somewhere in between what Yves Saint Laurent initially showed and what Hedi Slimane redesigned thus far, but only time will tell what the House of Saint Laurent will do next.

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